Abstract
The traditional Indian craft of Bagh, a calico woodblock printing technique, originates from a place Bagh in Madhya Pradesh’s Dhar district in India. This method involves carving floral, geometric, and paisley motifs into woodblocks, which are then inked and stamped onto fine cotton fabric using natural dyes like indigo, mustard, khaki, red, and black. Known also as relief printing, it highlights India’s rich textile heritage, showcasing intricate craftsmanship passed down through generations. Historically, cotton’s journey from India to Europe began after Vasco da Gama’s 1498 voyage to Calicut, with the earliest evidence of cotton cultivation dating back to the Indus Valley Civilization in the fifth millennium BCE. By the 17th century, the East India Company had exported significant quantities of Indian textiles to England, reflecting the global demand for Indian fabrics. Meanwhile, in the West, leather stamping with hot metal techniques emerged as a precursor to paper manufacturing, used for bookbinding and decorative panels, often adorned with geometric and animal motifs. These materials—cotton and leather—have played vital roles in fashion and societal status, serving as indicators of individuality and group identity. Their pre-treated processing and printing techniques remain integral to contemporary fashion industries worldwide. India has long been a pioneer in woodblock printing, renowned for its craftsmanship on textiles and leather. This paper aims to compare traditional motifs, styles, and techniques of Bagh stamped printing on calico cotton and animal skin leather, emphasizing the enduring cultural significance and artistic excellence of this ancient craft.
Presenters
Anketa KumarAssistant Professor and Head of Department, Leather Design, National Institute of Fashion Technology, Uttar Pradesh, India
Details
Presentation Type
Paper Presentation in a Themed Session
Theme
Beyond Borders: The Role of the Humanities in Reimagining Communities
KEYWORDS
Block Printing, Chintz, Craft, Fashion, Leather